By Pete Wong
A heritage-rich state interwoven with colourful folklores, Melaka is certainly a must-visit for any traveller, both domestic and international, especially those who are inexplicably drawn to yarns from the days of yore.
Melaka (formerly Malacca) became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008, testament to its historical and cultural significance. The city’s rise to fame began when Sumatran prince Parameswara (also known as Sultan Iskandar Shah) arrived on its shores six centuries ago, fleeing invasion by the Majapahit empire. He named the town after the tree that he was taking shelter under, called the Melaka tree. Soon the fishing village blossomed into a port city, growing in importance thanks to its strategic location. Not long after, Admiral Zheng He arrived with his fleet of ships from China during the Ming Dynasty.
And then in 1511 the Portuguese came and conquered Melaka, who were then displaced by the Dutch who reigned from 1641 to 1798; it was the Dutch who built the famous red buildings called the Stadthuys that still stand today. Melaka was ceded to the British in 1824 and remained a crown colony until Malaysia’s independence in 1957.
Must-See Attractions
The Stadthuys, which translates to “city hall”, are distinctive red buildings built by the Dutch in 1650 – hard to miss as you drive into Melaka’s old district. Among them is the iconic Christ Church, built in 1753, as well as the Museum of History and Ethnography, which is possibly the oldest buildings in the area.
Then there’s the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple along Jalan Tokong, dedicated to Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy; constructed in 1673, it’s most likely the oldest temple in the country.
St Paul’s Hill definitely tops the list of attractions in Melaka, which is home to St Paul’s Church on the top of the hill. Built in 1521 by a Portuguese fidalgo or nobleman, Duarte Coelho, the church was used by St Francis Xavier (whose statue lies outside the church) and his Jesuit priests in 1548 as a base for their missionary work. What remains now of the church is just four walls with some old stone tablets inside the building. Behind the church ruins is an old Dutch cemetery, and as you descend to the foot of the hills near the Melaka Sultanate Palace, the famous A’Famosa comes into view, the only remaining part of the ancient Portuguese fortress built in 1511.
Jonker Walk, also known as Jonker Street or Jalan Hang Jebat, cuts across Malacca’s old quarter, including Chinatown. In the days of Dutch Malacca, servants and officials of Dutch colonialists used to reside in the area. Once the Dutch left, it became known as the noblemen’s street where well-heeled Peranakans lived and operated businesses, lending the street its deep-seated ethnic and cultural flavour.
These days the old shophouses lining the streets cater mostly to tourists but there are some old shops worth exploring such as Jonker 88, an old-style cafe famous for their Nyonya laksa and cendol.
Within the vicinity, there’s the Daily Fix Café where western fare is served amid a heritage shop environment. Those who get a kick out of browsing through stalls of foodstuff, knickknacks and fashion accessories will enjoy Jonker Street in the evenings of Friday and Saturday as it transforms into an open-air night market.
Get Some Golf In!
If you’re looking to sneak in some golfing action while visiting the state of Melaka, you will not be disappointed as there is a lovely mix of courses to explore.
For starters, there’s A’Famosa Resort in Alor Gajah, one of the most comprehensive golf resorts in the country offering a superb 27-hole crafted by Ross Watson along with a myriad of other attractions including a water theme park, safari park and even a cowboy town. The golf course is made up of three nines with differing themes reflected in their names: the 3,182-metre Rocky Course, which has huge boulders as hazards in addition to water and sand; the scenic 3,215-metre Palm Course which has a parkland feel; and the challenging 3,154-metre Crocodile Course, comprising a tricky par four of 358 metres that plays parallel to a lake on its left edge – the approach shot has to cross this water hazard to reach a peninsula-like green, with the most hazardous of hazards awaiting beyond, a crocodile pit with live crocodiles!
Next up is one of Malaysia’s most revered clubs, Ayer Keroh Country Club, which is located next to the Melaka Zoo and Ayer Keroh Lake. Designed by former Deputy Prime Minister, the late Tun Ghafar Baba who was then the Chief Minister of Melaka, the Ayer Keroh course was carved out of virgin jungle in 1964 with many of the original trees retained. Its three nines comprise a number of holes playing around the lake, making the Ayer Keroh course not only scenic but also one of the toughest in the country.
Just a short drive away is Orna Golf & Country Club, one of the most challenging courses in the south of Peninsula Malaysia characterised by heavily mounded fairways, huge bunkers and large lakes. Designed by American architect Andy Dye, the golf course consists of three nine-hole loops: the 3,297-metre East Course; the fully-lit 3,400-metre West Course; and the 2,911-metre North Course, designed to be the shortest and easiest of the trio.
Also close by is Tiara Melaka Golf & Country Club, a scenic 27-hole tract crafted by the American design firm of Nelson, Wright & Haworth – offering three nines, the Lake Course, Meadow Course and Woodland Course, each lined by tall, mature trees making astute course management a must for a good score.
If time permits, take a drive to Jasin town to check out the unique six-hole, par-22 course of the Jasin Heritage Golf Club. The course opened for play in 2017 and is built on the site of the former colonial era nine-hole Jasin Golf Club.
Must-Eats
Your stay in Melaka would be sorely incomplete without a good Peranakan meal, and Nancy’s Kitchen is practically an ‘institution’ that commands a visit. Must-tries include popiah, pie tee, chicken candlenut and assam pedas fish – not forgetting desserts such as cendol and Nyonya pastries. Amy Heritage Nyonya Restaurant, located downtown, is another Peranakan establishment worth checking out.
Located along a stretch of shophouses just a few minutes’ drive outside town, Pak Putra Tandoori & Naan Restaurant serves lip-smacking Indian-style tandoori chicken, naan and roti canai, among others. For some unforgettable laksa, swing by Calanthe Art Cafe along Jalan Hang Kasturi.
And don’t miss Geographer Cafe, which is known not just for its food but also for its ambience as it’s set in a pre-war shophouse at the corner of Jalan Hang Jebat and Jalan Hang Lekir. Enjoy the pre-war coffeeshop experience here while people-watching, plus it’s great spot for post-dinner coffee and cocktails.
